DIY Rating: Novice (Can you change the Oil in a car?)
Time: 30 minutes
Cost: Approx $100
The Mazda 2.3L Duratec engine found in the Mazda 3 SP23 was cursed with a cartridge style oil filter, instead of the conventional easy to use Spin-on filter. With the Mazda 3's starting to come out of warranty now, why not make servicing your own car a little easier? Thanks to Mazda's weird engineering, the Mazda 3's 2.0L engine uses a Spin-on style filter, even though the engines are the same apart from the engine displacement. So this enables us to easily convert to the Spin-on style from the 2.0L without any hassles at all on your 2.3L.
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- 10mm socket and ratchet - 3/8" or 1/2" will be needed (1/4" ratchet won't have enough leverage).
- 17mm spanner/socket - to remove Oil sump bolt
- Adjustable wrench for oil pressure switch
- Car jack
- Car Jack stands
Only 3 parts are required from the conversion - Mazda Part #s L302-14-311 (Spin-on filter arm), LF01-14-342 (gasket) and the actual filter. You can order these through your local Mazda Spare parts or off the internet from Mazda Spare Parts retailers in the US - http://www.mazdastuf...?ProductID=2869.
Oil filters can be purchased from all leading car retailers, but just specify that you have a Mazda 3 2.0L - Ryco Part number: Z632. But if you order it as a kit from the US, they will also supply a genuine Mazda Oil filter as well
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Along with this, you'll also need a little bit of plumbers/gas tape. This can be picked up from most hardware and automotive shops (inc Bunnings) for as little as $1.
Donít forget to pickup some fresh oil as well, as youíll need to change the oil at the same time!!!
- Jack the car up and Secure it with Jack Stands.
- Remove the wind tray from beneath the engine. There are 7 x 10mm bolts holding this in place: 2 down each side, and 3 along the front right beneath the radiator.
- Warm the car up to thin the engine oil and then place an oil pan under the engine and drain the oil by removing the oil drain bolt on the bottom of the sump. You will need to take off the oil filler cap on top of the engine to help the flow.
- Once drained, re-install the sump plug and torque back up to factory specifactions (bloody tight)
- Now onto the oil filter. Place an oil pan under the whole oil filter assembly to catch the oil.
- At this point you can remove the existing cartridge filter if you want, but itís easier just to leave it attached and remove the whole oil filter and bracket assembly in one go.
- Disconnect the wire leading to the oil pressure sensor on the arm above the oil filter.
- Remove the 4 x 10mm head bolts that attach the oil filter assembly to the engine block and the whole filter assembly should now come free. A little gentle force may be required if the gasket is stickingÖ.
- Remove any remaining gasket from the engine block and clean the area to remove any oil.
- Remove the oil pressure switch (green plastic thingy) off the side of the old filter bracket.
- Clean up the thread on the oil pressure switch and apply plumbers/gas tape to the thread.
- Install the oil pressure switch into the new oil filter arm.
- Install the new Spin-On filter arm with the new gasket supplied utilising the same 4 bolts again. Be careful not over tighten the bolts as they are going into the aluminium block which is a soft metal.
- Plug the electrical socket back into the oil pressure switch
- Apply some fresh oil to the rubber seal of the new oil filter and spin it on. Tighten it by hand only (Generally as tight as you can by hand)
- Pour in some fresh oil until at the right level on the oil dip stick.
- Replace oil filler cap and check for leaks
- If no leaks, start the engine and let it run for a few minutes while continually checking for leaks as the oil warms up and thins out.
- Replace engine wind tray
- Take it for a spin and enjoy!
The finished product:
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If you ever want to install an Oil Cooler on your 2.3L, this mod is a must!