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Want to hear from members who have blocked the EGR on their BT50


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#1 Wartim

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Posted 20 April 2017 - 08:56 PM

I know there is info on this forum about blocking the EGR on a BT50.

 

 I want to hear from members who have actually done it to their 3.2 BT50 and if  a complete blocking plate or plate with a hole was used.

 

Where did you purchase the plate and were there any issues?

 

Thanks in advance

 

 



#2 TravellingSparky

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Posted 20 April 2017 - 10:32 PM

Did mine about 6 months ago using a $10 stainless steel full blanking plate you can purchase from multiple sellers on eBay.  Word of warning on the BT-50 or Ranger - it is a bitch to do.  The area you need to blank is hidden from view between the rear of the engine and the firewall so you will lose skin off your knuckles.  The plates have slots cut in for the bolt holes so you don't have to completely remove the bolts, which is a god-send.

 

It will not set off any error codes and keeps a lot of the muck out of your engine.  I read a huge article on basically how useless the ones with the 10mm hole drilled in them were, the exhaust gases are under such pressure that the majority still passed straight through the hole, and when you see how hard it is to fit in the first place you want to make sure it actually achieves something.

 

Idles ever so slightly better and hopefully keeps the crap out of the engine.



#3 TravellingSparky

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Posted 21 April 2017 - 01:07 PM

Hi Wartim,

 

Just to add to above comment - before I fitted mine I reset the trip computer and drove for two weeks to get an updated average fuel consumption (which was mostly city/suburban driving at the time with a boot load of tools) and I returned a figure of 11.3 per 100km.  I then reset again, fitted blanking plate, swore a lot and fitted bandaids, and then drove for another two weeks in same traffic.  Returned a figure of 10.1 per 100km.  This has improved even more with the 3" exhaust.  I now sit in the low to mid 9's - pretty happy and have done 28,000 km in the 6 months it has been fitted and never once had an error code or any issue that makes me regret the decision.

 

Our company had a leased fleet of 7 Tritons and three ran like a gutless bag of spanners.  One only had 39,000 on the clock and was 3 years old.  Mitsubishi diagnosed as the inlet manifold being blocked with deposits and recommended an $1800 dismantle and clean.  The other two affected cars had 53,000 and 62,000 on the clock and had no get-up-and-go in them.  Being leased we could send them back, but Mitsi service centre sent me a link to "EGR blanking plates" - for offroad use and information only of course.

 

I did the same mod on my 2008 Navara at the 20,000 mark about 7 years back after an "unofficial recommendation" by the Nissan service centre.  He showed me the internals of a manifold of the same model ute as mine with 45,000 km and the built up gunk in side was mind blowing.  This mechanic also said always fit the plate without the hole first and if it ever causes a fault code to drill a hole no larger than 3mm.  Fitting the plate on the D40 Navara is about a 3 minute dead-simple job though.



#4 NZCoyote

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Posted 21 April 2017 - 05:53 PM

I've had full EGR blanking plates in both my BT-50's and had no errors or noticeable changes other than a slight improvement in fuel economy.

First BT-50 was a 2012 3.2L I had the plate in it for 75,000kms no problems. I pulled the plate out,when I traded this ute in, and fitted it to my new 2017 BT-50 3.2L (with dpf) and haven't noted any change in 7,000kms so far.

As for the install, I agree it's a pain in the left one, both utes had manual gearboxes and I've heard these are easier to do. My approach was to do everything from underneath the ute using a combination of socket extensions and a Flexi joint to get access to both bolts. Hardest part is initially cracking the two bolts free after that it's pretty easy.

I got my plate from a guy on the NewRanger forum.

Regards,
Nigel

Edited by NZCoyote, 21 April 2017 - 05:55 PM.


#5 Hoyks

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Posted 21 April 2017 - 07:28 PM

I fitted one after a lot of swearing. In the end I pulled the actuator off and then got to the bolts through the engine bay, found it much easier than from under the floor.

 

I too got about a 1L/100km fuel saving indicated on the dash, but in reality when calculated from fuel fills and the odometer it wasn't quite that much, but still better. It idled and accelerated off the mark better.

 

After about 8 months just as winter was kicking in, I started getting codes and limp mode on start up, but they would clear on a re-start. After a week of this they wouldn't clear, most of the fault lights came on and a fast idle was the best I could get out of it.

It was tilt tray-ed into the dealer and they did a few days fault finding. As part of that the induction system got stripped and the blanking plate blamed for my woes.

 

I can't confirm if that was the only issue identified of if any other parts were to blame or changed, but by all accounts there was an induction leak, the finger was firmly pointed at the blanking plate and I got a $650 bill.

 

I have a week off, I'm out of warranty and a spare car, so I'll be pulling and inspecting the intake manifold in a week or two, so you will get some idea how much crap a BT50 accumulates in 750000km.

 

Another option is a catch can. The idea is that with oil going into the manifold it gives something for the soot to cling to. Eliminate the oil and it reduces the soot accumulation.



#6 Wartim

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Posted 23 April 2017 - 09:05 PM

Thanks all for the positive feedback.

 

I installed a provent catch can and primary fuel filter today, very easy and only took less than 2 hrs.

 

  • If a blanking plate is installed am I right in thinking you won't need a catch can?
  • Or does the exhaust gas still get piped into the intake and I still need a blanking plate?

My BT50 is a 2013 model and has done 58000K so wonder what the intake looks like?

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#7 Supersi

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 08:29 AM

I fitted egr block about 15,000km ago. No error codes. I'm about to fit a catch can too as there is to much oil in the intake.

#8 Wartim

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Posted 25 April 2017 - 09:56 PM

If I have already installed a good quality oil catch can, should I still fit a EGR blocking plate?



#9 Phillthy

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Posted 26 April 2017 - 03:59 PM

The catch can looks to fit in well in the above pic.

Is it easy to empty and how much oil are you blokes collecting over 3 months or so.



#10 Wartim

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Posted 26 April 2017 - 10:03 PM

just unscrew the big cap on top and have full access to the filter and cleaning the inside of the catch can.

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#11 craigxr6

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Posted 29 April 2017 - 07:45 PM

Hi Wartim, looks neat and tidy, where did you get it and did it come with the mounting brackets.



#12 Wartim

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Posted 30 April 2017 - 08:06 PM

Hi craigxr6 

The kits came from "Direction Plus" and included a Fuel Manager Pre-Filter kit with its own bracket and the genuine MANN+HUMMEL ProVent 150 oil catch can, which came with its own bracket as well.  This is the bracket to use if installing a Pre-Filter and catch can as this laser cut stainless bracket is a duel mounting bracket that mounts both the Fuel Manager Pre-Filter as well as the catch can.

 

The kits included everything you need including quality hoses, clamps, nuts, washers, bolts, tap to drain oil out of catch can, zip ties  and installation instructions.

 

It was very easy to install and took less than 2 hours to install.  Mind you I did a dry run through the day before so new exactly what was involved and how everything had to go, except the final route for the hoses.

 

If I am to be critical I would say the following -:

  1. The top mount for the stainless bracket is bolted over the top of the existing bolt and nut on the AC TX valve or evaporator valve.  This IMHO is not  ideal as transferring load onto this valve and maybe the evaporator on the other side of the fire wall, no expert just trying to use common sense, so happy to be corrected.  I am going to install an aluminium bracket down onto the top of the mudguard to take any load/vibration away from the TX valve.
  2. Not much room left so very hard to check the clear drainage bowl on the pre-filter for any contaminates such as water as mostly hidden by hoses and the catch can.  It can be seen however not easily.
  3. If the filter on the fuel manager needs to be changed the hoses to the catch can will need to be removed.  Not ideal however only a 5 minute job to remove when required which may only be every 20,000K so not a biggy.
  4. The other option is to mount the Catch Can some where off the front grille/radiator area and will solve all of the above.

My kits came through TJM, however Direction Plus have quite a few distributors around, just go to their website here http://direction-plus.com/ 

 

 

Regards


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#13 Tiny2829

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Posted 02 May 2017 - 10:09 PM

i have just ordered a catch can pro vent 200 as if i getb rid of the oil the soot has nothing to stick to  



#14 Hoyks

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 03:47 PM

I've just spent the best part of the day in the shed pulling the intake manifold out to clean the carbon out of it.

A bit of background; I had a blanking plate on for 20000km before the issue described above had me tilt trayed to the dealer. The plate came out then. At about 50000km it had a dose of intake decarb and done mostly highway km and now had 78000km on the clock.
No catch can.

The intake isn't as bad as I thought it would be, although there was about 3mm of crusted on carbon through the manifold, but hardly any buildup in the intake ports in the head.

I don't know if the decarb did anything, I tried some of it and it didn't touch it. I also tried spraying with kero based degreaser which did buggerall. I ended up scraping it out with a tongue depressor and washing in hot water and more degreaser.

Gaining access is a pain though, lots to unplug/remove to get the manifold out. Everything is connected, you need to take the fuel filter housing out, but to move that the battery and fuse box have to go and unplug the ECU/BCM to get out 2 bolts .
The upside is that they envisaged it having to be done, so all the manifold bolts are attached to the manifold and 2 fuel lines in the way have disconnects.

I'll be washing the carbon out of my skin for days though.

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Edited by Hoyks, 03 May 2017 - 08:22 PM.


#15 Wartim

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 09:46 PM

Interesting Hoyks and good info.

 

So exactly why did the vehicle breakdown?

 

Has the EGR plate been removed permenetly?



#16 Tiny2829

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 10:10 PM

so it still blocked even with the plate? did it have a hole or was it solid?



#17 Hoyks

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 11:17 PM

I fitted the solid plate and drove it for a year with no issues at all. Then coming into winter I started getting a powertrain warning light on start up and straight into limp mode. A re-start and it came good. This went on for a few days, then just about every warning light it had came on and wouldn't reset.

 

Dealer sent out a tilt tray, they hauled it into the workshop, poked around a bit and reset the codes to see if they could get it to do it again. The code was that the airflow was too high. I didn't have time to play with it and it was 50km away in their shop, so I had to take their word for it. They stripped the intake system and blamed the plate for the leak. So the plate came out at around the 30000km mark and it has been sucking its farts since then.

 

A load of crap though as you could see the nice clean edged of the carbon buildup from the seal, so it wasn't leaking. I'm thinking it was something else and the plate was a convenient scapegoat. But what can you do?

 

Since then its hardly missed a beat, apart from split intercooler hose at 69950km, 3 days before the warranty ran out :happy: .

 

I only pulled it down because I had a spare few days, a spare car, was interested in what I'd find and thought 'what the hell?' It took the best part of the day. A bit longer because my shed is a mess and my 1/4" drive sockets are at work. I'm glad I did go digging though, because some of the manifold bolts were not much more than finger tight.


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#18 Tiny2829

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Posted 04 May 2017 - 11:08 PM

thanks for the info mate



#19 Shrimpywh

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 01:40 PM

My BT has an EGR block and recently showed me a p0401 "EGR flow insufficent" code. Its being running fine since and kind of seems expected that the air flow would be insufficient since its blocked off.
Should i be more concerned about it? 



#20 Gof

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 08:01 PM

A power train warning and air flow too high normally means a air leak from a burst intercooler or hose.




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