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'90 626 shfter control rod + exhaust manifold problems

#1 User is offline   Carr 

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 02:55 AM

Hi guys, I just recently picked up a base model '90 626 hatch manual for a stereo project. I noticed that the shifter was extremely loose and could barely select 2 and 4 gears. Turns out that the stay bar was missing the bush and wasn't even bolted on. i also noticed there was a lot of play in the control rod, it isn't in the bushes where it bolts onto the selector arm but in the joint which is riveted closed. It looks like there may have been some sort of bush in there once upon a time but it is now gone. Is there a way to remove the slop from this joint without grinding the head of the rivet and replacing it?
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I also need to replace the exhaust gasket as it was blown out. I tried to take the manifold off today but couldn't get the nuts off on the flange on the bottom of the manifold due to not having the correct size socket or spanner. A 15mm was too small and a 5/8 was too big. I don't want to have to take most of the exhaust system out just to change the gasket. Anyone know what size those nuts are?
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#2 User is offline   rodhog 

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 04:26 PM

In terms of the Shifter.

Get 2nd hand one most are okay. OR you do drill out the rivet and put in a bras or copper bush.
The original are not softrubberised plastic the like the other.

Normally the end links on the box and stick go first and most people change them first but if abused long enought the rivited one will fail.

Note if you find a Later model GV wagon uptill 1996 in manual it's the same one and they are newer.


In terms of the manifold I can't remember the size but sounds like they are damaged. It's a cut and replace or retapp etc. I've done it to many it just depended where or how. I even had a car that had bolts used into the head not the standard nuts.

The biggest issue is torque setting and retorqueing it up after you run it up to temperature and let it cool. But also

Make sure you fit the factory heatsheild/ gasket. The aftermarket ones don't feature the heatsheild peice and this causes spark plug issues and in most cases I've found none - espeically on the turbos to seal as well as the factory original gasket set.

Original set is 3 peice - sold as two types . One is heat sheild with two gaskets or you buy the two gaskets and resued the old heat sheild part. But that heat sheild is the key to it.
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#3 User is offline   Carr 

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 07:08 AM

View Postrodhog, on 03 February 2012 - 04:26 PM, said:

In terms of the Shifter.

Get 2nd hand one most are okay. OR you do drill out the rivet and put in a bras or copper bush.
The original are not softrubberised plastic the like the other.

Normally the end links on the box and stick go first and most people change them first but if abused long enought the rivited one will fail.

Note if you find a Later model GV wagon uptill 1996 in manual it's the same one and they are newer.


In terms of the manifold I can't remember the size but sounds like they are damaged. It's a cut and replace or retapp etc. I've done it to many it just depended where or how. I even had a car that had bolts used into the head not the standard nuts.

The biggest issue is torque setting and retorqueing it up after you run it up to temperature and let it cool. But also

Make sure you fit the factory heatsheild/ gasket. The aftermarket ones don't feature the heatsheild peice and this causes spark plug issues and in most cases I've found none - espeically on the turbos to seal as well as the factory original gasket set.

Original set is 3 peice - sold as two types . One is heat sheild with two gaskets or you buy the two gaskets and resued the old heat sheild part. But that heat sheild is the key to it.


Thanks for the reply. I will probably just drill out the rivet and replace it with a bolt and bushes that way if it goes bad again, then I can just put in new bushes.

I thought something wasn't right with the nuts on the manifold. i will probably just take the whole system out as I need to replace the rear muffler anyway.

Thanks for the info on the gaskets, I was wondering why there were 3 in the kit I got, 1 full one and 2 smaller port sized ones. I got a decent tube of sealant to use on it too just to make sure it seals.
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