[steves]

Hi Folks

I have just fitted a reco head onto my 121 metro 1.5l. ( cooked the old 1)

The tappets are still noisy after about 500k's.
I thought they were self adjusting. Are they? do i need to readjust them.


Any idea's

[CorkSport - Derrick]

steves, on 26 January 2012 - 10:43 PM, said:

Hi Folks

I have just fitted a reco head onto my 121 metro 1.5l. ( cooked the old 1)

The tappets are still noisy after about 500k's.
I thought they were self adjusting. Are they? do i need to readjust them.


Any idea's

Are they all making noise or just a few?

-Derrick

[steves]

CorkSport - Derrick, on 28 January 2012 - 02:14 AM, said:

steves, on 26 January 2012 - 10:43 PM, said:

Hi Folks

I have just fitted a reco head onto my 121 metro 1.5l. ( cooked the old 1)

The tappets are still noisy after about 500k's.
I thought they were self adjusting. Are they? do i need to readjust them.


Any idea's

Are they all making noise or just a few?

-Derrick

Hi Derrick
it sounds like all of them.

[chief tool]

theyre hydraulic so, yes they "self adjust"to an an extent.

There are about 3 reasons for noisy hydraulic tappets:

1. contaminated oil making it thin, usually an oil change fixes this if you havent done one for a while
2. leaky tappets, where the seals are damaged and the tappets fail to hold pressure, or the tappets have clogged oil passages.
3. Poor oil pressure due to worn bearings etc.

[project.r.racing]

reco head. warrenty job?

[rodhog]

Some cars can take along time to bleed the HLA's I can think of many late 80-90's models that can take a bit of wear in before they bleed right out.

I normally find - Hi to mid load at constant speed can bleed many. I found works great on Buck -shim heads like hondas and toyotas. Normally means a drive down M5 or M4 at speed limit in 3rd or 4th gear. about 4-5000rpm and just hold it vary a littl with traffic but does the trick.

On mazda's I'm a bit questionable - I've found it can depend on how well it was put back and being mazda's how clean the rest of the oil system was flushed. A good merchanic will remove the pan and wipe it out if you do a head any way. The problem is if you mixed oil and coolant. Your bound to get some coolant in the oil system and the moisture can be pain to remove.
Above technique works on some.

On others I've found it require REVS. It took 2000km's before a rebuilt Kl-De was clear. A FS-DE I had not time ot get it clear so I cheated. I used 0-30 oil I had for a SR-20. Thrashed it, replaced with normal 10-40 and another quick thrash it was all gone. Till at 7000km service it was noisy again. replaced oil went 15-40 gone never came back. Surprised the oil most of it but I know it can effect it.

So do check oil spec. Don't go too thin. It drains from the HLAs too quickly and allow air in on startup.