[GaZa315]

Ok so im looking at some audio gear, and i can get a really good price on a 2500 rms amp. The plan is to run that to dual 12' 1200rms subs as well as running about 400 rms for my speakers. So the question is...

IS ALMOST 3000 RMS to much for the stock alternator? or can i smply upgrade the battery to say a yellow top optima and do the BIG THREE???

Thanks in advance

This post has been edited by GaZa315: 26 January 2012 - 06:49 PM

[phunkdust]

Ballpark, a 2500 watt amplifier is going to draw, flat out, about twice what your alternator can provide. In the order of 150 Amps. You will need to run 00 gauge wire, and probably a couple of good aux batteries.

This post has been edited by phunkdust: 27 January 2012 - 11:11 PM

[GaZa315]

phunkdust, on 27 January 2012 - 11:03 PM, said:

Ballpark, a 2500 watt amplifier is going to draw, flat out, about twice what your alternator can provide. In the order of 150 Amps. You will need to run 00 gauge wire, and probably a couple of good aux batteries.

Ok i see were your going, i've already run 0 gauge but ... if i was to down grade my system to say 2x 1000 rms amps instead?? id rather not but if it stops me from having to wire in another battery i'd definitely consider it.

[GaZa315]

Or what if I was to run two batteries? But that would only increase my storage i guess, if the batteries held a few amps and the alternator couldnt recharge that there wouldn't be a lot of point to two batteries? Is that along the right lines?

[200sxr]

If those amplifiers are true 2500W rms with all channels driven you are looking at just over 200 amp of continuous current, now unless those amps are class D you may as well add in another 50% in power loss as 12v amps are inherently inefficient. So you are looking at 300amps current draw, if you need to have that sort of continuous output you will need to look into upgrading your alternator.

However the truth is the amplifier will never be driven at their full capacity and I doubt that is the real rating of those amplifiers.

[GaZa315]

200sxr, on 31 January 2012 - 11:26 AM, said:

If those amplifiers are true 2500W rms with all channels driven you are looking at just over 200 amp of continuous current, now unless those amps are class D you may as well add in another 50% in power loss as 12v amps are inherently inefficient. So you are looking at 300amps current draw, if you need to have that sort of continuous output you will need to look into upgrading your alternator.

However the truth is the amplifier will never be driven at their full capacity and I doubt that is the real rating of those amplifiers.

The amp in question is the RF power series - the T2500-1bdCP which at 2 ohms puts out 2500 rms, (which will run the paralled dual 4 ohm subs) as the name suggests its not class d but bd which from what ive read is more efficient then some other classes but doesnt have as much distortion as d class ... but if im wrong it wouldnt be the first timei made a mistake
But im seeing that its pretty clear cut ... if im going to run that much power in going to need to a combination - big three, bigger battery and an alternator that puts out more then the stock 90 amps??

In regards to the alternator ive heard of people on this forum getting it respun? not sure 100% what the involves but 160 to 200 amps is achievable aparentlly or is a H/O new altern my best bet??


Really appreciate the input guys

[phunkdust]

Should I ask why you need 2500 watts of subwoofer... are you planning to do SPL comps because this is way above what anyone would realistically need.

[GaZa315]

You got it in one ... it started as just a simple stereo upgrade and went up from there. Im definately keen to give the comps a go and see how it goes, currently in the setup phase - wiring and power requirements, hence the question of the mazda's capabilities

[bzy8]

I'm Running a Kicker L5 Solo Barick with a 1200 watt rms amp and its only running half power and still drains. You will def want to upgrade Battery, Alternator and even look at extra battery and capacitor.