12 replies to this topic

[antman]

Hi,

I am going to look at an 85 mazda wagon on the weekend. Just wondering any common problems i should be looking for . I used to own an 1972 Mazda 1300 auto with a TC engine. Also another later model manual one with a UC engine for a paddock basher/spares. Not familiar with the later D5 engines that come in these but i hear there a good thing. Can you get things like timing chains and steering parts for these easily? Any advice would be good and hopefully i end up with another old mazda soon.

Cheers

[chief tool]

as far as I am aware the D5 is not much different to the TC and UC so, all the same rules still apply

Wagons : rust is something to be careful of, but thats par for the course for old cars, some of the nose cones are near impossible to get now.

[timmy201]

The 80+ models had the high roof and plastic bumpers, blacked out windows and two door mirrors!


Rust is the worst along the firewall seam normally, leaves and stuff build up in there.

They are all share the same basic block. TC's are the smallest at 1272cc, UC's are middle at 1415 and D5's are the biggest at 1490cc. The D5 is the pick apparently. UC is a bored TC, and D5 is a stroked UC. They added extra emissions crap as they went along. Manifolds, heads, most bits are more or less compatible.

Tie rod ends, steering bushes are all available from most parts shops.

[antman]

Hi,
Thanks for the heads up guys. Went and looked at one on Sunday and it was a bit too rusty. Found another one for sale that was only 2 mins drive from my house and am going to pick it up tomorrow. It has been really looked after and has a good body and paint. Took it for a drive and it steers and brakes really well for an old wagon. Only bad point is the engine is a bit rattly and has a slight hesitation. Also the clutch pick up is a bit high and might need replacing soon. Will start sorting the engine out first. Going to check valve clearances, timing chain tension and give it a tune up. If this doesnt sort the rattle out its probably something worn and ill look for another engine to rebuild or replace it. Not sure what i want to do with it yet. Probably start out putting some different wheels on it, new shocks and put a tacho in it. Definitely dont want to put a rotary in it. Just keep it fairly standard for the moment. Anyway thanks for the info. Heres a few pics of it.  DSC01435.jpg   349.03K   3 downloads  DSC01438.jpg   458.92K   2 downloads

[timmy201]

It looks pretty solid
You can get rid of most of the emissions stuff.. Maybe check the points and dizzy rotor/cap? The clutch cable also has an adjuster on the fork end, might help for a while..
Nice and simple little cars. Mines taught me alot (maybe too much)

[antman]

Had a quick look this arvo at the engine and the points were almost closed up so i fixed them. Took it for a drive and it goes really well. Haven't even finished tuning it yet! Cruises really well with the 5 speed and sounds great.
Definately need to get rid of the pollution gear. You can hear part of it banging shut on overrun, thought it was a backfire at first! Dont know exactly how the air vents work yet in the cabin. Seems to get air from the fan to the windscreen but no air comes out of the other vents until you start driving. Starts to get bloody hot sitting at the lights with no air blowing. Dont know if this is standard or not. Had a look at your build Timmi and its looking the goods.

[timmy201]

Had a quick look this arvo at the engine and the points were almost closed up so i fixed them. Took it for a drive and it goes really well. Haven't even finished tuning it yet! Cruises really well with the 5 speed and sounds great.
Definately need to get rid of the pollution gear. You can hear part of it banging shut on overrun, thought it was a backfire at first! Dont know exactly how the air vents work yet in the cabin. Seems to get air from the fan to the windscreen but no air comes out of the other vents until you start driving. Starts to get bloody hot sitting at the lights with no air blowing. Dont know if this is standard or not. Had a look at your build Timmi and its looking the goods.

Yeah, my intake manifold has had all the emissions taken off, I've never had one with the throttle position solenoid thingy..
5 speed goes ok dont they! Ive only gone around the block but it's much better than the auto.

Yeah the side vents only get fresh air from the grill near the wipers.

You can get the fan to blow onto your feet if you put it on "room" and fresh and cold.

[antman]

Bit of an update on the wagon. Done a few kays since i first got it. Done a few 500k round trips and its getting 6.7L/100km on the highway. Gets 7.5-8 running around town. Passed its RWC first go with the mechanic saying how well looked after it was. Had a noise in the engine which turned out to be the water pump bearings. Changed it over myself and it runs well. Also had to reweld the drivers seat mountings on one side. The spot welds had broken away and the floorpan was starting to crack. Think this might be a common problem with these (or im getting too fat).
Installed an electronic ignition conversion today which i bought off ebay for $60. Came with very good instructions and easy to install. Had to reset the timing and it was good to go. Now starts with a bump of the key hot or cold and goes a bit better too. Can now set the spark plug gaps a bit bigger which will help too.

Attached Files

•  !Bl0IoNg!mk~$(KGrHqIOKi4Er)63BvfpBLdItMtC-Q~~_12.jpg   25.18K   3 downloads

[timmy201]

Sweet, I didn't know they made kits for the 323 dizzys. Did you need to change the coil or anything or just wire up the kit?

[chief tool]

I wish they had those kits around when I had my 1300.

Be careful opening up the spark plug gaps, as it will increase the voltage required to fire them. It may not be a problem, but then again you might find that the HT system cant cope and starts breaking down.
I would sugesst replacing all the components with new, i.e new dizzy cap, rotor button, coil and spark plug wires. Magnecor metallic conductor wires (from thudercords) are also a good idea IMO as i've found the cheapies have carbonised string as the conductor which can break due to mechanical damage and will burn out over a period of use.

Even then its probably a good idea not to open the gap out past 1.1mm.

My KJ laser had a bit of a miss that had developed (I later found this out to be poor quality factory spark plug boots) but I fixed it by first changing to 0.8mm spark plugs from 1.1mm, then I ended up using iridiums with a 1.1mm gap which have the fine wire tip (the fine wire tip needs less volts for the spark to jump) this got me by until I replaced the factory leads with metallic ones and never had any more issues. I sold the car before I needed to replace the spark plugs again.

[antman]

Sweet, I didn't know they made kits for the 323 dizzys. Did you need to change the coil or anything or just wire up the kit?

Running a Bosch GT40R coil that came with the car and stock ballast resistor. Pretty sure a stock coil would work as well just need to check the specs with whats on their website.

[antman]

Anyone know the best way to get the bonnet open with a busted release ? Seems to be broken at the bonnet end. Took it for a run at my local autocross today when this happened between runs. Doesn't go too bad on dirt only spun it once and didnt come last either!

[timmy201]

You might be able to undo the front hinges and open it far enough to open the latch..