[timmy201]

Got my rims back. This is the worst one before, it looked alot worse than this in person too



And after. It cost twice as much to get them painted as well, so I'll do it myself later. (Paint got a bit melted from the TIG I'm guessing)



I fitted the mirrors while the roof was getting yellowed. Also put the interior back in and cleaned it up as I went.



Fender mirrors were quite useless on the quick blast around town. I think they need cleaning or adjusting or maybe a better quality mirror.

April EOMM is a strong possibility for my first meet...

[caz888]

it's looking good mine is gowning to be in a show some time

ow do you need parts

This post has been edited by caz888: 13 April 2012 - 07:45 PM

[timmy201]

caz888, on 13 April 2012 - 07:23 PM, said:

it's looking good mine is gowning to be in a show some time

ow do you need parts

Sounds good! I only need bigger bits like guards and a door, which might be a bit expensive to post!

So the plan today was to get the roof smoothed back and give it a wash before a car show tomorrow. I decided to take the scenic route home when I got a quiet whiring noise about 5 min from home. I revved it accelerating just near home and it started ticking It was a pretty slow tick, at idle maybe every 2 seconds. I thought it must have been a valve or something. I pulled off the valve cover to check what was going on - the timing chain guide had worked itself loose. Looked like such a pain to tighten up both bolts without taking off the timing cover. It looked like the tensioner was still in place. That could explain the noise?





As I spun the engine over by hand I noticed this! Thankful for double row timing chains!



Ive got another chain somewhere, just a bit of a pain to pull the engine out again! I'm very lucky it happened today near home, and not tomorrow halfway up a mountain pass (and I haven't renewed my roadside assistance)

[chief tool]

ewwww....

lucky.

It's been a while but I dont remember having to pull the engine to change a timing chain.

I took the radiator out, then removed the crank pulley, timing covers. The you remove all the valve gear so you can pull the camshaft out of the cam sprocket, then you can lift the chain and both sprockets out through the head.

As I said its been a while, I might have missed a step or two.

[timmy201]

I can't get the crank pulley off without chocking the crankshaft? If I had a rattle gun it wouldn't be so bad
I'd still need to do the head and sump gaskets though

[chief tool]

Even without a rattle gun (I didnt have one when I did the timing chain in my 1300) I jammed a screw driver into the flywheel ring gear after removing the starter motor.

Some times you can be lucky, putting the car into 4th, and using a sliding T bar and socket and tapping the end with a hammer you can loosen the crank pulley bolt.

Air tools are worth every cent, even if you just but stupid cheap auto ones just to get you started.

[caz888]

i trick i found u pull out a spark plug and push rope in to the clyder and when it is turned over the rope will stop the piston gowing up and down and you can tack out the crank bolt out

This post has been edited by caz888: 15 April 2012 - 10:49 PM

[timmy201]

chief tool, on 15 April 2012 - 07:18 PM, said:

Even without a rattle gun (I didnt have one when I did the timing chain in my 1300) I jammed a screw driver into the flywheel ring gear after removing the starter motor.

Some times you can be lucky, putting the car into 4th, and using a sliding T bar and socket and tapping the end with a hammer you can loosen the crank pulley bolt.

Air tools are worth every cent, even if you just but stupid cheap auto ones just to get you started.

I figured my parts weren't in till Friday, so there was plenty of time to stuff about. I also find it so much easier to change the sump and head gaskets when the engine is out on the stand.

caz888, on 15 April 2012 - 10:14 PM, said:

i trick i found u pull out a spark plug and push rope in to the clyder and when it is turned over the rope will stop the piston gowing up and down and you can tack out the crank bolt out

Haven't heard of that one before! I'd be worried about bits of rope ending up in the cylinders when you take it out.

Ok so

Sunday: Order gaskets.

Monday: Pull out engine. Find loose bolt in the sump, and a missing bolt on the chain guide. Hmmmm. It's just above the timing chain.

The cam sprocket is leaning on the top of the two guides in this picture. It's the far side that had the missing bolt, and it would drop straight into the chain/bottom sprocket. A massive coincidence that the link that happened to break was the different colored one with the timing mark on it!



I forgot to leave the water pump bolted on so I need a new water pump gasket, and the intake manifold has been leaking coolant again so another one of those is needed too.

Said bolt



Loose guide - Upside down. The other bolt has hanging by a few threads..



(Sorry for dodgy photos - need to charge the camera)

[chief tool]

Do yourself a favour and ditch the gaskets and use RTV and you wont have to worry about leaks...trust me

I've not heard of timing guide bolts coming loose like that before, you could loctite them in but that might make adjusting it in the future a bit of a pain, I would just torque them up to factory specs and leave it.

[caz888]

so did the bolt cum out and get the timing change and i have 3 engines and i can get parts off then because parts are getting hard to find ( a bit of my parts )

This post has been edited by caz888: 18 April 2012 - 08:50 AM

[timmy201]

Thursday 19thGot some bits today. Head, sump and timing cover gaskets. I borrowed a torque wrench from a mate and I picked up a high mount brake light for the back. I also thought I got some yellow T-10 bulbs for the parkers, but I think they turned out to be amber

Might have time Friday night/Saturday morning to get stuck into it. I had a bit of time Friday afternoon to clean off all the crud from the old gaskets.
Then Saturday morning I put on the new(er) timing chain and lined up all the timing marks. The hope was to get the timing cover bolted on and possibly the head.
I decided to do the bolts on the timing chain guide up a bit tighter this time so that they wouldn't fall out. Bottom bolt went on fine. Top one kept turning when I tightened it up, I figured I must have ruined the thread. I went to undo it, and the head of the bolt came off but the rest didnt (Grade 6 bolt too) I think the bolt had bottomed out in the end of the thread. After my lousy attempt at removing it I gave up for the day and ended up borrowing a tap set. If I get time tomorrow I'll try to get the old thread back, or bore it up to the next size.
Then timing cover, head and sump on. One positive thing is that the big end bearing are still rock solid, so I've had good oil pressure High mount brake light installed. Well stuck on with the double sided tape. Need to wire it up.

Workplace cleanliness is essential

I cranked out the tap set. I couldn't get the original thread back (6x1.0) so I bored it up to 8x1.25, which is the next common size up. It was pretty easy, just gotta be patient.

Kinda like this. Only more in focus. I had to shorten the bolt to fit, and I ran it through the other tap to clean up the thread. It all bolted up fine!

Timing chain back on

And now I've got the timing cover on. I'm attempting to tidy up the wiring a bit using conduit

I need some brake cleaner, gasket paper and electrical tape and a few hours in the shed...
Wednesday 25th I got the head back on

Two foes reunite

Sump got all gooped up

So today I pulled the engine down and was putting on the flywheel and clutch. It was 90nm to tighten the flywheel to the crank, and the engine section didnt have a torque for the clutch pressure plate. I think I used too many torques...

I crapped myself at this stage. Most of the bolt was still in the flywheel and it was late in the afternoon on a public holiday. So I had another flywheel, but it was for a 4 speed. I pulled it out and they were different. Different offset to the crank and 4 speed looked a bit smaller diameter. I had both flywheels off at this stage, thinking of a place to extract this bolt so I can bolt it all up. A moment of desperation provided a good thought...how about I try unwinding it by hand? It wasn't actually in tight, it came straight out! :mrgreen: (torque setting of 27nm was under "clutch", not "engine" btw)

Engine in. This was the first time I've left the gearbox in the car while putting in an engine. Normally I pull out both and allign the gearbox and engine on the ground. First attempt didn't work, the clutch wasn't aligned properly. I had the 4 speed lying on the ground nearby and I kept thinking if only I could remove the input shaft to use to line up the clutch. Then I remembered that I could just use the whole gearbox to line it up only took me 6 months to work that one out!

Not much to do now, just radiator, intake manifold, oil and water and connect a few wires. Hopefully smooth sailing from now on! Friday 27th
Got the rest of the engine bolted up
It started up and was smokey and seemed to have a misfire
Hooked up the timing light, only flashes 3 then misses one
Also timing chain seems alot tighter than before. Old one had some slop to it, but this one is pretty tight. I don't know how to make it the right setting?

This post has been edited by timmy201: 29 April 2012 - 11:50 AM

[chief tool]

Hmm,

I had to read my old Mazda 1300 book to remember how to do this....its roughly a case of adjusting the left hand guide (looking from the front) so that the tensioner is just off its stop....the later model motors might be a little different tho, with regards to how the tensioner works.

The idea is that the tensioner powered by oil pressure will then press against the chain, when the tensioner reaches 8mm out from the stop, the chain is deemed to be stretched and should be replaced.

I remember NA/VC/MA versions of the motor had oil pressure controlled chain tensioners, the later model type had a one way ratchet to stop the tensioner going back in if the oil pressure got low. I cant remember if the TC/UC/D5 motors were like that, if they are you need to release the one way ratchet so the tensioner goes all the way back in, and keep it there while you are adjusting the guide. The MA ones had a hole that you put a nail into, so as to hold it in place.

[timmy201]

chief tool said:

1335686848[/url]' post='198839']
Hmm,

I had to read my old Mazda 1300 book to remember how to do this....its roughly a case of adjusting the left hand guide (looking from the front) so that the tensioner is just off its stop....the later model motors might be a little different tho, with regards to how the tensioner works.

The idea is that the tensioner powered by oil pressure will then press against the chain, when the tensioner reaches 8mm out from the stop, the chain is deemed to be stretched and should be replaced.

I remember NA/VC/MA versions of the motor had oil pressure controlled chain tensioners, the later model type had a one way ratchet to stop the tensioner going back in if the oil pressure got low. I cant remember if the TC/UC/D5 motors were like that, if they are you need to release the one way ratchet so the tensioner goes all the way back in, and keep it there while you are adjusting the guide. The MA ones had a hole that you put a nail into, so as to hold it in place.

Thanks! It must be close to correct then, the tensioner isn't too far off the stop. This motor didn't have the ratchet, but the other two I have do.. Weird.
Had some time yesterday morning before work (who gets up early on Monday mornings?) to try and sort out why it wasn't running very well. I pulled out the spark plugs to see if that was the problem, it sounded like it was only running on 3 cylinders. Sure enough when I got them out, number 3 was wet and a bit dirtier so I swapped it for a different one. It now runs pretty smooth, except for the leaky gasket between the exhaust manifold and down pipe, which has again reminded me to get a louder exhaust!
Hopefully the video works..
https://www.youtube....be_gdata_player
I though the smokeyness was probably due to me having the engine upside down and filling the exhaust manifold with oil. After the video, it wasn't smoking very much at all, and it was sitting on idle nicely.

I took it for a quick spin around the block on monday night to warm it up to set timing etc. Had a few drops of oil/liquid on the ground when i got back and it was smokey. It seems to have oil seeping out of the bottom of the exhaust manifold where it connects to the down pipe. I'm pretty sure the head gasket isn't sealed properly.
Hmm now when have I seen this before... Further investigationing to come!

[chief tool]

How annoying.

I dont think i've ever had the issue of the gasket not sealing, and I've done some dodgy things in the past (like reusing old gaskets!)

If you get the opportunity its worth swapping the tensioner with one of the ratchet style ones as it will give you a more consistent chain tension. Its probably not a problem now as your motor has new bearings. Typically it becomes a problem once the oil pressure starts getting low, i.e hot idle on a hot summers day with half worn bearings. The low oil pressure means less chain tension with the non ratchet type, as the tensioner can go backwards.

[caz888]

when you put the head on and titend it down did you retiten it and it may be that ( and how do you get all those engin gasgets because i cant get the intake or the exuast gasget )

This post has been edited by caz888: 02 May 2012 - 09:25 AM

[timmy201]

chief tool, on 02 May 2012 - 08:23 AM, said:

How annoying.

I dont think i've ever had the issue of the gasket not sealing, and I've done some dodgy things in the past (like reusing old gaskets!)

If you get the opportunity its worth swapping the tensioner with one of the ratchet style ones as it will give you a more consistent chain tension. Its probably not a problem now as your motor has new bearings. Typically it becomes a problem once the oil pressure starts getting low, i.e hot idle on a hot summers day with half worn bearings. The low oil pressure means less chain tension with the non ratchet type, as the tensioner can go backwards.

I'm willing to bet it was oil getting between the gasket when I was putting it back together. (pretty sure I did the exact same thing last time too). I decided to oil up the cam and rockers during assembly.. I ordered 2 sets of gaskets from different shops, so I have a spare gasket as backup.

The tensioner has the stiffer spring from the ratchet type, because the old tensioner had worn out.

caz888, on 02 May 2012 - 09:17 AM, said:

when you put the head on and titend it down did you retiten it and it may be that ( and how do you get all those engin gasgets because i cant get the intake or the exuast gasget )

I normally get them from the local Autobarn. You can order online from Supercheap too, a bit cheaper and it gets delivered to your door.

[timmy201]

I took a day off to try and sort out the engine... A least it was a nice day!

I wiped up all the excess oil to try and pinpoint leaks. I took it around the blocks to warm it up, then reset the timing and the valves. Timing was a bit off and it drove much better after it was fixed. It didn't seem to have any smoke coming out the back, and it didn't seem to be leaking oil at all from the front. I retightened the head bolts too, and it would seem to be fine at the moment!

So I had a bit of time to paint up the fixed rim. Not perfect, but much better than before.

And I had a quick go at some mini rims I have stashed away for a future project